This is a nice paracord bracelet jig, and the instructions are very easy to follow. I made my own a while ago, and I use it for most bracelets. Having a jig is not required to make great looking bracelets, but if you want to crank them out at a decent pace, a jig is the way to go. It can also be used to make lanyards, collars, etc.
Steve: Hello this is Steve from chaoticthinking.com, here today to go over the how to and construction of the Paracord jig that I’ve used in my previous videos. I’ve received numerous questions and comments about it, so I’ll cover those here today. As well I’ll cover the tools that I use and the making of my Paracord projects.
All the materials for this jig can be bought at Lowes. The hardware can be found in the hardware and fastener area of Lowes and the wood can be found in the project area. Before I get started on this jig I’m going to show you what I was initially using before I actually built this jig. I was using just a simple 1 x 2 on it. I attached segments of 1 x 1 as a standoff from the initial board.
On to those I attached these cable clamps to hold the buckles and then I just constructed my bracelet in between. Of course I didn’t know the size when I started out, so I started out way too long, moved my initial board, still to not the right length, moved it until I found the sweet spot for the bracelet for my size. You don’t want to have to move your board every time you make a new bracelet and that’s where the slider on the main jig comes in.
This is just a simple jig that I made to hold the things in my lap as I was making them and then after a while when I knew I wanted I graduated and made this. My camera set up does not allow me to put the whole thing in view. After the end of this video at the very end I’ll have still shots of different angles of this jig, as well as the materials list and a size list on the screen.
This jig consists of three different boards. There is a 1 x 6 at the base, there is a 1 x 4 at the top and as the slider, and 1 x 1 as the guide rails on the side. The size for these, the base 1 x 6 is 17-3/4” long, the top 1 x 4 is just cut to the width of the 1 x 6. The rails on the side are 10-1/4” long and the slide block is 3-3/4”.
Once you’ve gathered your materials and you’ve cut them to length, the first step is to attach your top block. This will simply attach with fours screws to the very top. The next part is to find this facing for your slider and your side rails. For that, I found the center point of my slider block and the center point of your baseboard. Align those up and set your rails on to get the spacing. Mine doesn’t go to the complete edges, so that’s why you can’t just place it on the edge.
Once that’s found I predrill my holes and for that I flip the entire rig over and you can see my lines. I place my block back up on the board, I place my rails on where they would go, and then I drew lines. I then predrilled my holes that way it wouldn’t split my wood. The 1 x 1 is a small piece of wood that may actually split if you just attempt to drive a screw into it without predrilling your holes.
Once that’s all found and you’ve attached your side rails. Place your block back in, and I actually placed mine at the four inch mark, just measure down four inches from the top of your base block to the top of your spider block. Take and sink your hole, mine is a 5/16 hole that I just sunk straight down through. Then take your board, your slider block and move it down to the bottom length that you want your bracelet or your ability to make bracelets. I put mine at the 10” mark. Take your same drill bit, go straight down through the same hole that you went down through and drill you a second hole in your baseboard.
Once you have your two holes, take and draw a line from the outer edge of the hole to the outer edge of the hole on both sides. This is where your jigsaw comes in, sink that down, and cut out your two lines and that exposes your channel. Once you have your channel complete, the next step is to attach your slider block. That is done with a three inch carriage bolt, washer, and wing nut to fit on the carriage bolt.
Ultimately I like to have a second washer on the bottom, but the carriage bolt is square near the head, the washer is round, the squared peg does not fit into the round hole unless it would not sit flush. I could find a bigger holed washer that would accept and go around the square base and that way I can have a washer on the top and a washer on the bottom.
The final step in the process is attaching your nylon cable clamps with your buckle to your top block and your slider block. These are 5’8” buckles and the nylon I think is a half inch. If you are using a smaller buckle you would need to get a smaller nylon clamp to go on and you can attach a small buckle on one side and your bigger buckles on the other side that way your jig will actually work for any size buckles that you are using.
When you’re attaching your buckles and your clamps you want to have it to where your buckle is perfectly in line with your block, the edge and edge and vice versa on the other side you want the back edge to be perfectly aligned with your block. This gives you the ability that between this block and this block is your overall bracelet length and you can use your measurements here and just lining up your block to get your bracelet size on which you want.
If you sunk your holes with your board at the four inch mark and at the ten inch mark you have the ability to make a four inch bracelet to a 10” bracelet. That should suffice for any size wrist that you would be making and possibly a small dog collar. If you were going to make a collar for a larger dog you might need to make a longer jig for those purposes. That is the basic instructions of my jig that I use. Keep in mind after the next segment I will have still photos of the entire jig from different angles as well as a parts list and measurements list.