Posted by Stacy on 1/9/2013
Part two of the Paracord Drink Koozie. Stay tuned for the next after this!
Read more: http://www.paracordblog.com/how-to-make-a-paracord-drink-koozie-pouch-part-two/102#ixzz2FcRpx9cn
Speaker 1: All right guys, this is going to be part two of my how to make a pouch, which was originally Storm Drainís design and Iíve just used a different jig and a different system to make them what I feel is a tighter weave and just better for me.
Basically where we left off was tying the two colors together. Iíve got a 20 or 25 foot section of yellow now attached to my fid, and weíre going to start doing our weave across, back and forth all the way around. You can start with over or under, it doesnít matter. Iím going to start with under and youíre going to go two and two. Iím going to go under two, over two, under two and so forth. This is where the curved fid and the flexible bottle really come in handy and show whatís up, because the pop can for me was always demolished by the time I really finished doing one. With this I can really put a lot of force where I want it, and once the weave gets tighter I wonít be able to do this, but Iím able to get that needle through the whole weave.
This is another point. In the first fid that I mentioned, it doesnít really matter if you have an odd or an even number because at the final line you can go over under one or if it is a even number you can just go over and under two the whole way, but having just one at the top looks fine to me.
Going to pull all that slack through. Again cord management is a lot here, you want to try to lay your cord down in a nice clean pile as youíre pulling it through, and as youíre weaving it side to side. Then youíll usually get some twists and you definitely want to try to pull those out so you see which way theyíre going, and as you pull the cord at the end you can really fix those twists nice.
This part where itís tied is going to end up hiding over Ö hiding under too, and the bottom is perfect when it works out that way because thereís a lot of thickness at the bottom of the pouches to help conceal that.
Iím just going to leave that. Might go two more actually. Put it up one row, right there. Wherever it ends up for you, you can adjust your cord to make sure that it ends up under instead of over. Right now the can is going to push out on it so itís very obvious where it is, but I assure you when youíre done with your pouch you wonít know where it is.
Now when we switch sides what youíre going to do is the opposite of what you just did. If you came out under the blue, like I did here, Iím going to go over to start with. Then youíre going to go every other two, just like we just did. Every line of weaving you do, itís going to tighten up the slack and get everything held together better. If they loosen up on you as youíre trying to weave through, no big deal just keep going. Iím going to want this one a lot closer to the row that I just worked on as well, so when Iím done pulling all the slack through Iíll adjust that as well.
I hope Iím not getting off camera too much here.
Iíve got my thumb placed right here so Iím not pulling all those bottom rows out of whack. That way I can pull pretty hard and lay all my cord down right where I want it as I'm working. This one happened to have not much twisting going on.
Now what I like to do here for the rows is pull it not quite all the way, make sure Iím getting any twists out, and leave just a touch of slack for now so I that I can work everything tight up and down. Then Iím going to start at the bottom and push this one Ö it doesnít really matter if you start at the bottom Ö but push that one over basically as close as you can to that one.
Now the original design called for a half inch in between and I just find that the closer you can get these the tighter everything is going to be. Of course it takes a little more cordage, but it just works out real nice.
Now as far as how much slack to pull out of there, just enough. You donít want to go too far, itíll start deforming, but if itís too loose, itíll be loose and your whole pouch with be sloppy.
Now weíre going to come through the other side right next to that, and again just do the opposite. We came out over, weíre going to start under, and just do every other.
Again Iím sure you guys with straight fids can really see where a curved fid gives you a big advantage on a project like this. When these weaves start to get really tight, you can actually switch around and move further out when youíre doing them, because it gets harder as you go.
All right. Basically thatís what youíre going to do each time. You can see how much I have this bottle pushed in by the time I was done there. Thatís why I like these. They really, really can take the flexing and beating and pop right back out into shape.
Now the setup that Iím using, if you end up using a similar setup, is using this for the slack right now, and when these get really, really tight and the whole bottleís caving in, thatís when Iíll take that out, and it will be loose again for a couple rows, and then it will tighten right back up again.
As you can see Iím going to take this every time and push these as close as I can and keep them all as nice and straight as I can. As you do it as you go along, you end up with real nice turnout. You can see there Iíve got some slack. I want that out but not deformed, right about there. All right, then just do it all over again.
I came out under, Iím going to go over. This time itís starting to get tight over there, Iím going to a little bit further away.
Just start in with your weaving, and guys really enjoying this paracord, that the paracord store was nice enough to send out for me. Cheap paracord with a project like this, I donít know if you can even do it with that cheap stuff or not. It really twists a lot worse when youíre tying it, and lays really flat and ugly. If you donít have good quality cordage guys, get over there and hit them up.
Pulling all that slack out. If you guys have done this before, you can see there, this stuff is just really nice because it does not twist too badly and Iím not getting all kinds of knots every time. Again thatís partly because I lay it down right, but with cheap paracord you just get twists nonstop.
Just keep all these lines nice and even. Look at each line every time. Push it over as closely as you can, basically. You can start to see what kind of pattern weíre going to have, and Iím going to pull that slack just enough up at the top. Not too much. All right.
Now same thing over here. Youíre going to do the opposite. Basically weíve been through four lines, youíre just going to keep doing that guys, until this thing starts caving in on you and pull that out. When I get to that point Iím going to come back for video three, which should be the final in the video Ö unless there could possibly be a part four.
Thanks for watching guys. Hope everybody is figuring this out. If you have any questions at all definitely get at me. Thanks for watching guys, stay tuned.